Showing posts with label designer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label designer. Show all posts

Monday, February 11, 2013

A Night of Movie Fashion . . .

Me in front of a few costumes from The Hunger Games

I was extremely priviledged in having the opportunity to attend the gala opening of FIDM's Film Costume Exhibit this last Saturday. It was an exciting evening and an unprecedented chance to get to see costumes--and costume designers!--up close. I was on Cloud 9 all night, and I still am a little bit :)

The armor dress from Snow White and the Huntsman

I took pictures of course, but these are just a few; my friend and partner in crime Freya (responsible for my invitation), took many more, and here's a link to her Flickr album:

Charlize Theron's wedding dress from Snow White and the Huntsman

The beetle dress from Snow White and the Huntsman

The Peacock dress from Mirror Mirror

Finally getting the chance to see both Eiko's and Colleen's work up close was really something special; I felt a little teary looking at the incredible workmanship, the fabrics, the insane details. I also felt a little like a docent all night; every time I was standing near a set of costumes and I'd hear someone wondering aloud about something, I would automatically answer them. I do so much research into these costumes that I just can't help myself, I guess :) I ended up speaking to a few journalists for a bit because of it!

Snow White Swan Dress from Mirror Mirror

The Prince's costume from Mirror Mirror

Costumes from the Artist

The only designer I really had the chance to speak with was Mark Bridges, who designed the Oscar-winning costumes from the Artist and the nominated costumes from this year's The Master. He was friendly, warm, and full of interesting tidbits; we spoke for several minutes, and I tried not to geek out too badly!

Costumes from the Avengers

The Master

Hitchcock

Les Miserables

John Carter

Dejah Thoris' wedding dress from John Carter

Django Unchained

Mary Todd Lincoln's dress from Lincoln

Getting to see costumes from Lincoln was another real treat; Joanna Johnston's attention to detail was astounding. Can you believe the dress above is an orange printed taffeta? Simply beautiful.

Lincoln

Lincoln

Lincoln

The tents outside were quite swanky and those in attendance were many and varied: everything from formal wear to a girl in a coat covered in feathers and a woman wearing nothing but bloomers and a corset! There was even a guy in tails and a top hat, and girl with blue hair and a candy pink tutu :)

All in all, it was a fantastic evening. I didn't get to meet Colleen, but I know I'll get the chance to meet her someday, when the time is right. I'm so glad I got the chance to go, and I'll be having costume dreams for some time to come. . .

Monday, December 17, 2012

An Unexpected Journey


I saw the Hobbit in 3D IMAX glory, and HFR to boot. Try saying all that 10x fast. On second thought, don't. Also, not so sure about 3D IMAX HFR in general, but more on that in a minute. There are some spoilers ahead, so if you haven't seen it and don't want to know ANYTHING about it, stop reading here.

First, a general review:
I quite enjoyed it. It did follow the book, for the most part, and where it deviated I wasn't too upset about that. The deviations either gave more backstory (as with the prologue) or set up future films (as with the Radagast detour). I did feel that Jackson was a tad self-indulgent at times; the intro at Bag End with Bilbo and Frodo was too long, and I felt it was pretty much unecessary except as a way for Jackson to sigh and revel in the world he loves so well. His love of Middle Earth is evident everywhere on screen, and though some shots or sequences linger a bit on the long side (did we need to see so much of the dwarves just walking?) I forgave him for this. I wasn't bored, and there was a lot of eye-candy.

I have to say a few words on a few individual performances. Firstly: Martin Freeman is one of my favorite actors, so I am a tad biased, but I thought he brought a wonderful awkward, funny humanity (Hobbinity?) to Bilbo that a film with such scope truly needs. He had impeccable timing too; most of the laughs came from the way he said a line rather than the line itself, and that's a credit to him.
Second: Jesus Christ, Andy Serkis. I am definitely a fan of his; if there were an Andy Serkis Day parade, I would march in it with a huge banner. The ten minutes he spends on screen are packed with so much emotion, nuance, menace, pathos and just sheer awesomeness that I wanted to spend more time with him. The give-and-tale between him and Martin Freeman (shot on Martin's very first week on set!) was really, really interesting to watch. It brought back everything that was terrifying, and sad, about Gollum. And, the evolution of the CGI for Gollum was marked and extraordinary; he looked really amazing in this film, an improvement in expressiveness I didn't know was needed until I saw the results onscreen.
Third: the dwarves, and Richard Armitage (Thorin) in particular. The actors had a really tough job playing parts with few lines, knowing they would be difficult if not impossible to tell apart and would mostly fade together in memory. Though costume and makeup were relied on to distinguish them for the most part, the truly memorable dwarves like Thorin (obviously), Bofur (James Nesbitt), Fili and Kili (Dean O'Gorman and Aidan Turner), and Balin (Ken Stott) were not memorable for their beards. They managed to shine through their costumes.


Now, for what you're really here to hear about: the costumes.

When I first learned that Ngila Dickson was not doing design duties on the Hobbit trilogy, I was a little miffed. Would the design team of Bob Buck and Ann Maskrey be able to take on the complexities of Middle Earth cultures, preserving the look or LOTR while adding something new? Neither designer has many actual design credits: Buck has designed for television, and Maskrey has been largely an assistant and cutter on large films. But, that's not to say they aren't capable; that's where you start, after all, and this is truly a test of mettle for them. Do they succeed?

Well . . .

Yes and no.

The unique problem of having thirteen fucking dwarves to create would give any designer a heart-attack, and to then need to make each one distinctive while working together as a whole is a nightmare. For the most part, I felt they did a wonderful job with the dwarves, especially with Thorin, whose armor and leather greaves were things of beauty, and whose mail was awesome. But, I found the hair and beards a trifle distracting, rather than distinctive. This may have been an issue of seeing it in HFR (more on that later), but at one point I found myself staring at one of the beards, an appliance that sported two braids that turned up like Pippi Longstocking, and I spent several moments trying to spot the wires instead of watching the action. Hats and hair: those were the watchwords for the dwarves, and while this worked for some characters, it detracted from others, looking less like clothing and more like costume. This is a danger in any fantasy film, and one LOTR sidestepped cleanly, but that the Hobbit seems to be stumbling into.

Bilbo's costumes, however, were lovely. Nothing to criticize here. He had the look of a well-to-do Hobbit through and through.

Gandalf was his usual, familiar look, though I was distracted by the slightly different staff this time around; each time it appeared I found myself wondering: could they not find the old prop? Was this a continuity error? Is his staff broken at some point between now and LOTR and I've forgotten? The silver scarf was a little Vegas for me, but it is specifically mentioned in the book. However, I suspect HFR strikes again in terms of how glittery-fake the fabric appeared; in normal rate the fabric probably looked fine.
Radagast's costume was actually delightful. Not much to add here, except: BUNNY SLEIGH! That is all.

The elves were where I really started to have issues with the costuming. Though Elrond first appears in a truly beautiful set of armor (in purple, for whatever reason), the rest of his looks I found bland. It was as though someone who had been used to having all his garments tailor-made suddenly started shopping at Elf-GAP. I really felt the costumer's lack of experience showed here; the purple and rust-colored robes he wears lacked the individual style and details of his garments in LOTR. Where was the embroidery? the recurring figural motifs? At one point another elf appears dressed nearly identical to Elrond in the White Council scene, and I sighed in exasperation.




Oh dear. Then we have Galadriel. I'm not going to deny that she was shot beautifully; the light coming from behind her in the scene with Gandalf is breathtaking. But, her dress? It seemed designed only to trail artfully behind her. The silhouette was lovely, but the devil is in the details, and the details were not impressive. When we are given a closeup, we see not the incredible botanical embroidery and hand-beadwork from Fellowship, but a Vegas-y trail of--is that rhinestones? It was plain and boring and looked amateurish when compared to other things designed for her. The tiny rhinestiones just dripped down in uniform lines, and looked as though they couldn't even be bothered to not make it look like an iron-on transfer. And the hideous grey overdress she wears when we first see her? What? Why? It seems to serve no purpose whatsoever, and disappears a few moments later.

However, with Thranduil they shine. We see him for only a few moments onscreen, but he looks really distinct and impressive, and I'm seriously looking forward to seeing more of him in the next film. Perhaps with the well-known characters the costumers felt intimidated by what had come before and played it too safe, but here was a character that was all their own, and it showed.

A word about seeing the film in IMAX HFR. I'm not certain I would do it again. There were things about it I liked: it was definitely clearer. But, at times it was just too clear. I noticed details I know I wasn't supposed to see, appliances started to look fake, rather than like seamless movie magic, and fabric that would have no doubt seemed fine suddenly looked weird and over-bright (like Gandalf's scarf). I have read some interviews with the art department about what a nightmare it was at times to work in HFR; everything had to be absolutely perfect or it would show, and the colors and tones were all terribly messed up by the 3D cameras. I can't imagine how hard it made their jobs. I'm just not sold on HFR yet.

Overall, I did enjoy the Hobbit and I am looking forward to the next installment. I don't think I'll be dreaming up any reproductions based on the costumes, however. But, Thorin might be showing up in a few naughty dreams for a while (sigh . . .) ;)

Friday, January 27, 2012

In Memoriam . . .


One of my inspirations has died.

You may never have heard of her. I sometimes forget that not everyone is as deeply into film costuming as I am, and I assume my readers have the same familiarities with famous costumers that I do. You may not have known her name, but I guarantee you know her work.

From Dracula

Eiko Ishioka was not a costume designer by trade. She did not sew. She did not construct garments, or even seek to have much understanding of how garment construction worked. But she was an artist, and she designed things in fabric that made you gasp. I first saw her work when I was 12 years old, and it changed the way I looked at film costuming forever. Her designs for Bram Stoker's Dracula were stunning, to say the least: the costumes transcended the historical constraints of the setting and gave life to the darker symbolism in the story. Dracula wore rivers of blood, and seemed to be skinned, his muscles exposed. Lucy, turned into a vampire, was a predatory lizard in white silk. Garments were embroidered with dragons and snakes and leaves, all to give you insight into the characters who wore them. I learned an important lessons from her: costumes are not just what characters wear. Costumes tell you who a character is.

From The Fall

Eiko collaborated several times with Tarsem Singh, designing four of his films, and all visual tour-des-forces: The Cell, The Fall, Immortals, and Mirror, Mirror (yet to be released). Her costumes in each push the boundaries of what film costuming means, almost becoming characters in themselves. She showed Eastern influences in many of her designs, but really her style conforms to no period and no map. It was simply Eiko.

From The Cell

From Varekai

She worked once with Cirque Du Soleil in a partnership that seemed inevitable: the costumes for Varekai were strange blends of lizard and bird, rooted to the ground and flying through the air, a mix that should not have worked. But, the fins and feathers married well, and the results were astonishing.

From Dracula

From The Cell

From Mirror, Mirror

From Spiderman

Her last two efforts, completed while she was battling pancreatic cancer, were collaborations with two demanding directors: once again she worked with Tarsem on Mirror, Mirror, and she designed the costumes for Julie Taymor's Spiderman: Turn off the Dark. You could not find two more different projects, but Eiko's stamp is obvious on each: Spiderman shows her penchant for biological dismorphism and insanely bright colors; the characters sprout spikes and wear their muscles on the outside, terrifying and beautiful. And Mirror, Mirror returns to the territory she walked for Dracula, with garments that bridge the gap between historical and fantasy in richly saturated colors and covered in embroidered motifs.

I am deeply saddened that such a great and visionary artist has been lost. She is one of the reasons I got into this business, and I can honestly say that the business of film costume will not be the same without her.

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Candy . . .


The Tarsem-directed, as-yet-untitled Snow White project (why not just call it Snow White? Hello?) released some pics today of the scrumptious Eiko Ishioka costumes. I am a fan of Eiko's in a major way; she pushes the limits of what fabric can do, and creates some seriously dramatic looks in all the films she works on. The Cell, The Fall, and Bram Stoker's Dracula got their singular look from her designs.

She is not a costumer, though. If you have her book, Eiko on Stage (which I do, of course), she talks about costume designing like sculpting fabric on the body, and one of her problems, consistently, is that she tends to design things that can't actually be produced or worn. She has no background in clothing, as most costumers do, so it makes her an unlikely designer. Yet, the things she produces elevate the art of costume design, and truly set the tone of whatever film she's working on.

The designs for the new Snow White film look like no exception. Check out a few slideshows here and here. And drool away.

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Love by Enzoani 2011

2011 Collection C20

I love Love. It's not a pun at all; I love the sophisticated, well-designed pieces in Enzoani's Love line. They consistently turn out Evening and Bridesmaids Collections that would make any wedding look like it cost a million bucks, and would make any bridesmaid look at home on the Red Carpet. take a look at some of their new offerings:

C3

C8

C9

C16

C33

C42

C40

C45

They offer their gowns in multiple colors, like any bridesmaid line, but the styling is impeccable. Trust me, your maids will thank you, and they might even actually wear the dress again!